After Nikos and I wrapped up our tour of Thermopylae, we turned around and headed back to Thebes, in search of the ancient battlefield of Plataea. Plataea was the site of the final, climatic showdown between the Greeks and Persians in 479 BC. Amazingly, this landmark of major historic significance in Ancient Greek history is seldom visited and basically unmarked. Thank god for Nikos! Now here is another 5 minute history lesson:
The Persian army, under the command of Persian general Mardonius, was, according to Herodotus, estimated at approximately 300,00 men and was camped on those flat plains in the distance.
Now turning 180 degrees, the Athenians, Spartans and other allied Greek city states, estimated at around 100,000 men, occupied the higher ground to the west, just below these foothills in the photo. Here is how Herodotus describes the Greek camp location:
“Next, the Greeks decided to head down towards Plataea. Their reason for doing so was that the terrain around Plataea was manifestly better suited to supporting an army than that around Erythrae in a great number of ways, and especially as regards the readier availability of water. Accordingly, they resolved to head for that particular stretch of land, and to the Gargaphian Spring in particular, which rose there, and on arrival to make camp, with each unit occupying its own separate position. So they picked up all their equipment and journeyed, by way of Hysiae, down from the spurs of Cithaeron onto Plataean soil – where, on arrival, they took up their positions, people by people, beside the Gargaphian Spring and the precinct of the hero Androcrates,14 on low hills or level ground”.
One thing I have learned about travel, is that its always the unexpected turn of events that make any day on the road most memorable. Earlier in the day, Nikos and I toured the Thebes Archeology Museum (BTW definitely the coolest and most accessible museum I saw during my week in Athens) and on our way out Nikos chatted up the security guard about Plataea. Smart move, as this guy described a shortcut to driving there, and informed us “the springs” could still be seen, with rudimentary directions to their location.
Sure enough, after one final check-in with a local farmer, Nikos and I diverted the car down a lonely side road, rolled down the windows, and stopped when we heard the unmistakeable sound of gurgling water. We jumped out of the car and there it seemingly was, the “Gargaphian Spring” right in the location as described by Herodotus. Of course there was no interpretive sign to verify these were the actual springs, however there was an ancient inscribed marble edifice over the spring, and amazingly, intact ancient wash basins (photo below) complete with drain holes. Nikos had been to Plataea 20 times and this was first time he had seen the springs – he could not believe it! Read the wiki link for Plataea (above) and scroll down to the battle formation description and you will see reference to the Gargaphian Spring, which matches the location in the photo. Let’s just call it luck of the Irish!
In addition, there were also old sarcophagi, above the spring which Niko has also never seen before.
I like this photo as the fading afternoon sun’s rays are shining directly into the crypt of the sarcophagi, enhancing the mystical quality of an incredible day of discovery with Nikos.
As for the battle, you can read the wiki link for the details but the turning point came when Mardonius was slain during a Persian assault on the retreating Greeks after 11 days of skirmishes. Persian morale collapsed with the death of their beloved general, and a wholesale slaughter of the entire Persian army ensued. After 20 years of hostilities, the Persian threat to Greece was over, setting the stage for the “Golden Age” of Greece over the next 80 years, and the rise of modern philosophy, mathematics, drama and literature.
Time to head for Crete!