The last 200 KMs of the Camino included some of the most breathtaking scenery of the entire journey in the high country of Galicia and increased social interaction as the Pilgrim throngs thickened approaching Santiago. This was the point where I started slowing down, and stopping at roadside cafes more frequently to socialize and savor my final week on the Camino.
Prior to entering Galicia we descended to Molinaseca via this gorge which was just starting to bloom with spring color. I snapped this photo above because it so well captures the erosion of a mountain trail from 1000 years of humanity kicking away the stones at their feet. Passing through Galicia there were many heavily eroded trail sections like this.
My last big day of walking on the Camino was 32 KMs on the 25th day, from Acebo to Pieros. At noon I passed through the town of Ponferrada and toured the stunning Castillo de los Templarios (Castle of the Templars), a stronghold of the Knights Templar during 12th and 13th centuries. The Knights were the primary protectors of Camino pilgrims during this time, but in 1312 King Philip IV of France and Pope Clement V, fearing their growing power and esoteric beliefs, conspired to crush the Order and most Knights were burned at the stake!
Simple, cheap communal dinners for weary and hungry peregrinos are one of the most endearing elements of the Camino experience. Here at the El Serbal hostel in Pieros I broke bread with Francisco from Italy and Soo Young, Nam, ?? and Soo Young from South Korea. It was one of those classic “Lost in Translation” kind of meals where meanings were often misconstrued, but ample servings of couscous and sautéed vegetables and jars of Rioja vino tinto greased the wheels of communication deep into the evening.
The next three days of walking, 78 KMs (47 miles) through the mountainous heart of Galicia, from Pieros to Barbadellos, I would rate as the most beautiful section of the entire Camino. Departing Pieros, the Camino passed through rolling hills of vineyards all morning, and then I cut north ascending an “opcion” route traversing the mountain peaks overlooking the Rio Valcarce valley. The views from ridgeline looking east over the medieval town of Villafranca were stunning, but the descent back to the valley floor through groves of gnarled chestnut trees consumed my entire afternoon, battering my quads and knees so I crashed in Vega de Valcarce village for the night.
The next morning, I woke up to fog and drizzle, which in retrospect was perfect weather for the spectacular walk awaiting me through the upper Valcarce valley to La Faba. As the path narrowed and the lush, verdant, dripping flora started draping over me, it felt like an old familiar friend…..Like I was back on Bainbridge Island walking moist and muddy paths, or the backroads of Donegal in Ireland.
I wrapped up the 2nd day of this “glorious Galicia” section climbing through the socked-in and drizzly mountain hamlets of La Faba and O’Cebreiro, and then dropped down for 20 KMs to Triacastela, where I caught up to my friends Dominique, Barb, Bea, and Jack waiting for me at the hostel.
I walked with Dominique Leblanc on the 3rd day of this mountainous Galicia section, which started cold, chilly and foggy just after sunrise, and then gradually the welcome rays of vernal sunshine made for a sublime afternoon of walking through forests, villages and pastures. The Camino path was frequently paved with ancient stones running past crumbling granite farm houses, stone crosses and bubbling brooks and you could feel the history of “the way” enveloping you as we closed in on Santiago.
One last photo from another memorable day on the Camino. I have met many classic characters during this walk, and one of the best was surely ”Dobul” from South Korea, truly Mr. “Camino Man”. This was Dobul’s 11th Camino and every time I saw him he was inevitably sitting in a cafe, smoking his cigarette and sipping on a tall glass of vino blanco. No matter the time of day that was his roadside cafe program, and we had a running joke where I would inquire of his beverage with mild and sarcastic “vino blanco”??, and he would always reply, “no ….agua” and his eyes would light up with a bright chuckle. Walking the Caminos is basically Dobul’s retirement plan and you could tell he thoroughly enjoyed himself. I respected that man and that plan….70 years old, walking the Camino as a alternative way of life and interacting with your fellow humanity every day in positive and humble circumstances. We should all be so lucky!
Next stop Santiago!